Magnolia’s
success no fish story
By
Ann CRISWELL | Houston
Chronicle Food Editor

Greg Genitempo fillets a salmon while his brother Mark looks on with
their grandfather, Joe Genitempo Sr. and father, Joe Jr., president
of Magnolia Seafood. |
This
year will be a special Father’s Day for the Men of the Genitempo family
– it’s the 85th anniversary of their company, Magnolia Seafood,
which began operations in an old tin shack at Allen’s Landing in 1907.
There’s been a lot of water (and fish) under the bridge since Julius Genitempo
started the company.
At
the time, Magnolia Brewery was the only cold storage facility in the city
and Genitempo worked out a deal with brewery owner Hugh Hamilton to store
fresh seafood there.
Genitempo
purchased nine schooners in New York. They sailed back to Texas and were
converted to snapper boats to fish the Gulf of Mexico. Snapper boats came
up Buffalo Bayou
from Galveston and landed where today Main Street crosses over the bayou.
Fish
was stored at the brewery, then sold in the city market (now Old Market
Square). Fresh fish was first transported by horse and wagon, then by
auto / trucks and later by rail on the “Browning”
overnight train from Brownsville.

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When
Joe Sr. took over in 1923, he relocated the business to a larger facility
at LaBranch and Congress and added coolers and freezers.
In
the ‘40s Magnolia moved to its present downtown location at 1901 Preston
Ave., where four thermostatically controlled freezing units can now house
about 230,000 pounds of seafood.
In
the early days, the wooden transport barrels held shrimp, crab, oysters,
flounder, trout, snapper and redfish and a few less popular varieties
– drum, sheepshead and croaker.
Now
Magnolia handles more than 350 kinds of fish and seafood from all over
the world – from mahi mahi from South America to salmon from Chile and
Norway. Consumers, especially those with health concerns, are eating more
fish.

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“The
market really has increased for exotic fish – tuna, swordfish and mahi –
but
we can usually get a good supply of fish depending on the weather,” said
Joe Jr. “Swordfish and tuna come from the Gulf, and we have some fish flown
in from South America.”
Magnolia
wholesales to most of Houston’s best restaurants, hotels, caterers, hospitals
and supermarkets – “our customers are much more aware of quality than
they were 15-20 years ago and they insist on freshness and top quality,”
Joe Jr. said.
“Laws
have changed so much (there is hardly any commercial fishing in Texas
anymore) so we have to go elsewhere. We can’t even import redfish from
Mexico or Louisiana - the only redfish we can sell comes from aquafarms,
and there’s not enough to meet the demand,” he said.
New
technology, such as vacuum packing and icing fish down as soon as it is
caught, helps keep fish fresher longer, he said.
Joe
Jr. became president in 1984 and his two sons came into the business as
they grew up and graduated from the University of Texas. Greg is vice
president and general manager; Mark is secretary-treasurer and sales coordinator.
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